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David Pike

Lords of the flies on the mighty Tweed

February 25, 2022 by David Pike Leave a Comment

A close encounter with Reid’s Assassin, Munroe’s Killer, the Butcher and Sweeney Todd leaves little to the imagination as to the likely outcome.

But names can be deceptive. The avuncular sounding Jock Scott, the amiable Garry Dog and a Greenwell’s Glory are every bit as deadly and all are prized for the fatal attraction they hold for unsuspecting salmon and trout.

Pity the poor fish, after journeying thousands of miles from the Atlantic and North Sea to return home to the Scottish Borders and the River Tweed, trying to say no to the seductive lures of these highly efficient killers.

Our murderous mob is, of course, part of the fly fishing family, and the second bunch of hooks are Border specialities from Victorian times that have since gone on to international fame.

Even then the Tweed, Scotland’s second longest river, was a magnet for those who were turning fly fishing into a sporting art form.

And in communities up and down the riverbanks, fishing supported a range of related service and cottage industries. Among them were rod making, undergoing a design revolution from 1850 onwards to enable anglers to land bigger fish, demand for ghillies to act as river guides for visiting parties and fly tying.

In the village of Sprouston a couple of miles east of Kelso, the Tweed had provided the main source of income for members of the Wright family for generations. Their cottage (still standing today) overlooked a stretch of water famed for its fishing and Sprouston confidently advertised itself as a provider of “good accommodation for those who come to fish.”

The head of the family, at the age of 22 and responsible for two younger brothers and a sister, was Jimmy Wright who had followed in his father George’s footsteps to work as a fly hook dresser. Over the next ten years, still living in Tweedmouth Cottage, he would marry Jessie and they would have four children.

He would also meet avid fly fishing enthusiast Canon William Greenwell, the larger than life librarian of Durham Cathedral, a partnership that made a contribution to fly fishing that endures to this day and has made both men household names among those who follow the sport.

Their legacy is the ‘Greenwell’s Glory’ a wickedly successful trout fly first dressed by Jimmy in 1854.
Canon Greenwell was in the habit of leaving the pressures of pastoral life behind and heading north to the Borders with the Durham Rangers Fishing Club that had waters at Sprouston and Henderside.
On a particularly thin day he noticed the fish taking flies he didn’t recognise, so he caught some and went to Jimmy, reputedly the best fly tier on the Tweed, to produce an imitation. The result is still described as the best wet trout fly of all time.

Armed with the new creation Canon Greenwell is later recorded as having a “fine day’s sport” with enough trout left over to fill his pockets as well as his kreel. He fished for 64 seasons and Greenwell’s Glory continues to be the downfall of many a wily trout.

Jimmy, meanwhile, went on to create many more famous flies before his death in 1902 at the age of 73, among them Silver Grey, Durham Ranger, Thunder and Lightening and Garry Dog.
There’s no evidence to suggest he ever met his fly tying contemporary, John ‘Jock’ Scott, but he would certainly know of him and would have been full of admiration for the eponymous Jock Scott salmon fly.
John hailed originally from Branxholme just south of Hawick and worked as a fisherman for Lord John Scott of Kirkbank on Tweed. His salmon fly was created as he whiled away the hours during a sailing passage to Norway.

For fly fishing followers this is the fly for all seasons and the best blend of colour ever put together for catching salmon. Immortalised in books and enhanced by reputation, few fly boxes in the world are without a Jock Scott. In Canada, another fishing Shangri-la, the Jock Scott was recently featured on a commemorative set of stamps.

Shortly after making its debut on the Tweed the rights to manufacture and sell the Jock Scott were snapped up by Forrest of Kelso, a hunting and fishing business founded in 1837 and run by brothers George and John.

Forrest of Kelso thrives to this day in Bridge Street where partner Trevor Black continues to provide equipment and services locally and to visitors.

“The Jock Scott is probably the best know salmon fly in the world and is definitely one of the most successful. It’s suitable for all kinds of weather and waters and is ruthlessly effective. We are extremely proud of the fact that this is where it all started and that flies originally designed and made locally are now world beaters.

“The fishing industry is hugely important to the area and we are fortunate to have best Atlantic salmon river in Europe and possibly the world right on our doorstep,” said Trevor.

Greenwell’s Glory, Jock Scott and scores of other colourful characters are cast across the Tweed’s moody, if bountiful, waters by thousands of fly fishers over the course of the season – one of the longest, running from Feb 1 to November 30.

Filed Under: Active Borders, Fishing

All roads lead to Abbotsford and border’s champion Sir Walter Scott

February 25, 2022 by David Pike Leave a Comment

The word is that Sir Walter Scott is enjoying a revival and his novels and poetry are
back in popular demand.

In his beloved Scottish Borders Scott’s star has never waned, his presence shines as brightly today as it did in his heyday almost 200 years ago.

Those who would discover more about the man can follow a dozen tourist trails taking in Scott’s favourite border haunts. From Scott’s View, the Eildon Hills, wrapped in local myths and magic, dominate breathtaking countryside. In Selkirk, there’s Scott’s courthouse, now a museum, where he sat as the royal borough’s Sheriff Depute and dispensed justice.

But to understand more about the man, all roads must surely lead to Abbotsford, his “conundrum castle” home tucked away amid 100 acres between Melrose and Selkirk.

Here he assembled a treasure trove that reflects the enlightened times in which he lived: a massive collection of books, artefacts, porcelain and paintings. They also confirm an insatiable curiosity for the world at large but especially Scotland.

The Scottish nation’s most memorable names from history are all resident in this magnificent house.

Here you will find Rob Roy’s broadsword, dirk, sporran purse and gun on display;
knives belonging to Charles I; Montrose’s sword; a lock of Bonnie Prince
Charlie’s hair and Bonnie Dundee’s pistols.

In the library, the ceiling copies elements of Rosslyn Chapel; predictably arousing much excitement among Da Vinci Code addicts.

Elsewhere, items of furniture and oak panelled walls have been fashioned from timbers rescued from the Auld Kirk at Dunfermline; a stone fireplace is modelled on the stalls at Melrose Abbey, and the entrance is copied from Linlithgow Palace.

Another of Scott’s historic recycling initiatives is the Robroyston chair made of
wood from the House of Robroyston where Sir William Wallace was “done to death
by felon hand for guarding well his father’s land.”

If it were Scott’s intention that the heart of Scotland would forever beat at Abbotsford he can rest easy.

A super-celebrity in his day, wealthy on the revenues that accrued from bestseller after bestseller, Scott scoured Scotland, England and the Continent for acquisitions.

He was also an avid collector of popular publications, the penny dreadfuls of their day, that sold from door-to-door and speculated on sensational subjects such as witchcraft and the supernatural.

As a pioneer in popular culture, his modern-day equivalent could be Indiana Jones and J K Rowling rolled into one.

At Abbotsford, fact lines up neatly alongside fiction; much of it interleaved with
Scott’s best-known novels that took form at the writing desk in his wonderfully preserved study.

In the library there are 9,000 priceless tomes, including a 15th-century Middle English manuscript, poems and songs handwritten by Robert Burns, together with pamphlets from the times of Jacobites and Covenanters.

Wandering around this incredible time capsule of a building – much the same as it
was when Scott lived here – it is easy to imagine that it could still have some, as yet
undiscovered, secrets to share.

That being the case the Abbotsford Executive Trust is doing all it can to extend the welcome. Abbotsford has undergone a £14m development project that has allowed restoration, refurbishment and the building of an excellent visitor interpretation centre and restaurant.

Opening Times
Please check arrangements for booking tickets for Abbotsford at the official website at www.scottsabbotsford.com

Filed Under: Abbotsford, Homes & Gardens

Jedburgh’s Enigma code hero

February 25, 2022 by David Pike Leave a Comment

On a wall in the British Legion Club in Jedburgh, neatly positioned between two Victoria Cross memorials, sits a third commemorative display, this one containing a George Cross.

It is no exaggeration to say that the remarkable story attached to this George Cross, awarded posthumously to First Lieutenant Tony Fasson RN, changed the course of the Second World War.

As a young boy he lived in Lanton Tower, near Jedburgh, growing up in the beautiful Borders countryside and a world away from the horrors of trench warfare ravaging Europe at the time.
 
In the early 1920’s, at the age of seven or eight, Tony went off to boarding school
and from there joined other young hopefuls at Dartmouth Naval College to prepare for a career in the Royal Navy.
 
Along the way this natural athlete became an expert and strong swimmer – a combination that would have fateful and historic consequences.
 
In 1941, and now First Lieutenant Tony Fasson, he was assigned to join the crew of HMS Petard, a 1,540 ton destroyer newly off the slipway at Vickers Armstrong yard on Tyneside.
 
As part of the Mediterranean fleet, HMS Petard and its crew, captained by Lt Commander Mark Thorton, would distinguish itself on many occasions, but none more memorably than on October 30 1942.
 
On that day Petard, in company with three other Royal Navy ships, was steaming to waters off Port Said on the Egyptian coast to investigate reports of radar contact with a German submarine.  A sustained depth charge attack was laid down, eventually forcing the U-boat to the surface, and after Petard’s 4” guns caused serious damage the crew started to abandon ship.
 
Searchlights stabbed through the pitch black to reveal its identity as U-559 with its distinctive white donkey emblem on the conning tower.

Quick action was needed if the submarine was to give up any secrets. Tony Fasson together with Able Seaman Colin Grazier dived into the sea and swam across to the stricken vessel, followed in one of Petard’s boats by 16-year-old canteen assistant Tommy Brown.

Clambering down into U-559 the men made their way to the captain’s cabin where they found two code books printed in water-soluble ink. Passing them out to Brown they went back into the submarine to continue the search. U-559 made her final dive taking Tony Fasson and Colin Glazier with her. 
They would never know the importance of their actions and nor, thanks to the cloak of secrecy that was thrown around the incident, would anyone else for a very long time.

In fact the documents they rescued, a Short Weather Cipher (Wetterkurzschussel) and Short Signal Book (Kurzsignalsheft), would turn out to be absolutely priceless.

Just over 2,500 miles away at Bletchley Park in Buckinghamshire, Britain’s top code breakers had hit a brick wall after the Germans introduced a fourth rotor into their brilliant Enigma machine code systems.

For months the upgraded M4 Enigma TRITON, named after the son of the Greek sea god Poseidon, had Bletchley’s best brains stumped.  Closeted in Hut 8, cryptanalysts had given their task the code name SHARK but they had yet to sink their teeth into TRITON.
 

These were desperate times for convoys braving U-boat packs in the Atlantic. Had Germany managed to prevent merchant ships from carrying food, raw materials, troops and their equipment from North America to Britain, as well as vital supplies to North Africa, the outcome of the Second World War could have been very different.

The ultimate sacrifice made by Tony Fasson and Colin Grazier has to be set against this potentially cataclysmic backdrop. Their courage allowed a glimmer of light to penetrate the darkest days of the war and enabled the Bletchley boffins to get back on track.

It took 24 days to get the code books from U-559 to Bletchley and the breakthrough came on December 13. The short weather cipher was precisely what the cryptanalysts
needed. 
 
Solutions to the hitherto impenetrable four-rotor Enigma messages between U-boat command and vessels on active duty soon began to flow. Only an hour after the first decrypts were made intercepts of U-boat signals were sent to the Admiralty’s submarine tracking room – revealing the positions of 15 submarines.
 
U-boat movements were exposed and the use of long range bombers and aggressive anti-submarine tactics gradually turned the tide in Britain’s favour. The scale of the breakthrough can be gauged by the fact that an estimated 1,250,000 tons of shipping and the lives of many seaman, were saved in December 1942 and January 1943 alone.
 
Both Tony and Colin Grazier were posthumously awarded the George Cross and Tommy Brown, the George Medal.  Tragically the young Tynesider was to die trying to rescue his sister from a house fire in 1945.
 
For the Fasson family, Tony’s death was to be followed by more devastating news when brother Jim, a Colonel in the Lanarkshire Yeomanry, was taken prisoner by the Japanese after the fall of Singapore. Incarcerated in the notorious Changi POW camp he was later shipped with is men to Manchuria until the end of hostilities.
 
The two brothers met, for what turned out to be the final time, completely by chance in Simonstown in South Africa. Jim was on his way to the Far East and, soon after, Tony sailed for active service in the Mediterranean.
 
The incredible secrecy surrounding Bletchley Park and all things Enigma meant that the U-559 incident never really received the recognition it deserved. This story started when I read about Tony Fasson on a set of beer mats produced a few years ago to celebrate 12 ‘Unsung heroes of the Borders’.

The U-559 heroes are, however, commemorated with pride by their local communities.
 
Tony Fasson’s bravery is recorded on plaques at churches in Bedrule and Jedburgh – as well as in the Legion Club. His original George Cross now resides in the Scottish United Services Museum at Edinburgh Castle.
 
In Tamworth, home town of Colin Grazier, a town centre memorial and part of a small estate with streets named Fasson Close, Grazier Avenue, Brown Avenue, Bletchley Drive and Petard Close offer a permanent reminder.
 
And, more recently, a stained glass window has been installed in the Saville Exchange Building in North Shields to commemorate Tommy Brown’s part in the episode.
 
Everyone of us have reason to remember with gratitude the actions of all three.


 

 

Filed Under: Border Towns, Jedburgh, People Tagged With: Scottish Borders. Jedburgh. Enigma hero Tony Fasson.

Jedburgh Castle Jail and Museum

February 23, 2022 by David Pike Leave a Comment

On a warm sunny day Jedburgh’s Castle Jail is one of the most pleasant looking buildings you could come across….from the outside.

Step across the threshold and you may find that it’s a different story. Here you will find tales of the gallows and and of ghosts – a grisly past and a very spooky present indeed. 

It is reputedly one of the most haunted places in the Borders, where apparitions are seen regularly, including a ghostly piper who walks the parapets, and strange lights appear at night.

The jail’s ghostly goings on have hit the headlines more than once and featured on TV when a team investigating the paranormal paid a visit. Their verdict – a spine chilling experience.

All of which is hardly surprising when you find that the prison was built on Gallows Hill and the site of the original castle, burnt down in 1409 to deny its use to the invading English. Despite its reputation Jedburgh Castle Jail continues to be a popular booking for ghost hunting groups from all over the country.

The castle was built in the 12th century by King David I and King Malcolm IV died there in 1165.

The present day building, a John Howard Reform Jail, went up in 1820 and was a model establishment in its day, though there’s no doubt that you wouldn’t have wanted to do time there.

The interpretation centre that is open to the public today reveals a prison regime that was as harsh as it was bleak.

You can walk through the original cell blocks, meet the inmates, examine the conditions they lived in and follow their stories. Step into one of the cells and just imagine the door being slammed shut and you’ll know what I mean.

The prison was mainly used as a debtors jail but, following longstanding tradition, executions continued to take place and criminals were hung on the gallows.

One such involved Thomas Wilson who was found guilty for the murder of a young shepherd at St Boswells Fair. It later transpired that Thomas was innocent (not the first and certainly not the last) and it may be that his spirit is one of those that roams the building seeking justice.  

Today it’s home to a museum that charts the town’s history and the achievements of its most famous citizens together and plays host to displays and travelling exhibitions.

Admission: Free.

More at… www.liveborders.org.uk/culture/museums/our-museums/jedburgh-castle-jail-and-museum/

Filed Under: Border Towns, Jedburgh, Places

A five star cast for the Tweed Valley Hotel

February 22, 2022 by David Pike Leave a Comment

I can hear the sighs of nostalgia now – an outpouring of affection and fond memories at the mere mention of the Tweed Valley Hotel. 

Under the dedicated ownership of Charlie Miller and his wife Joyce it became a magnet for fly fishers everywhere.

From all over the UK they homed in on the Tweed Valley Hotel every bit as unerringly as the salmon and trout who made their way back over thousands of miles to the river of their birth.

Strategically perched on a hillside at Walkerburn in the heart of the Scottish Borders, it overlooked the river that gave it its name; a haven with a band of brothers atmosphere that reigned supreme as a number one choice for fishermen everywhere.

The bonhomie later extended to deer stalking and grouse shooting enthusiasts, but it was always the Tweed that drew the bulk of the bookings.

Jack Charlton was a regular at Tweed Valley Hotel, as was Willie Whitelaw MP and 007 actor Timothy Dalton. “We had a great clientele and a lot of happy times. Jack Charlton was here at the same time he was appointed manager of the Ireland team and before we knew it the press pack had decamped to Walkerburn.

“Willie Whitelaw was a real gentleman and he would thank everyone personally when he was leaving. While here his break was often interrupted by calls from Margaret Thatcher but that didn’t prevent him from enjoying the fishing,” said Charlie, now 91-years-old and still going strong.

His journey to the Borders and a life-long love for fly fishing started after he moved toTyneside to pursue a career in journalism where he worked on the Gateshead Post and then the Evening Chronicle in the 60’s.

Charlie Miller outside his hotel circa 1970s.

“I started fishing the Tweed and in 1972 I stayed at the Tweed Valley Hotel. It was run by two brothers and I got wind of the fact that one of them wanted to sell up. We made them an offer and it was accepted, the start of a wonderful time running a 19-room hotel within walking distance of the Tweed. What more could you ask for,” said Charlie.

Between then and retirement the Tweed Valley Hotel was a top flight centre for fly fishing courses, taken by world champion fly cast Peter Anderson. They became educationally recognised certificate courses sponsored by Edinburgh Crystal.

Not to be outdone Richard Prior set up courses for deer stalking and Charlie became an influential member of the South of Scotland Deer Society. 

“It was a far cry from my days as a cub reporter on the Lytham Times newspaper. My spare time was spent sea fishing in those days but there’s nothing that can compare with fly fishing,” said Charlie who has a fishing fly named after him – the Charlie Miller – a variant of the Dusty Miller and presented to him as a birthday present from the family.

“We had loads of repeat business and fishermen, knowing rooms at the hotel were constantly in demand, would book up months in advance as they checked out, rather than be disappointed. 

“It was a great time and a privilege to be part of it. Fishing for me is still the ideal way of switching off, listening to the noise of the water and in harmony with nature. I get down to the river as often as I can,” added Charlie.

After retiring, he and Joyce retained part of the hotel grounds at Walkerburn and built a new home that also, conveniently, overlooks the River Tweed.

And, not surprisingly, his son David, who worked as a chef at the family hotel, followed in his dad’s footsteps and is also an avid fly fisherman.

David took things a step further recently when he teamed up with fellow businessman Dave Foster to launch www.fishingmugs.co.uk

Sounds like the perfect catch for fishing fans.

Filed Under: Active Borders, Fishing

The Tweed – recreation, romance and history

February 22, 2022 by David Pike Leave a Comment

The Tweed, one of Scotland’s great rivers, (in spite of the fact that its final few miles flow through England) is a magnet for those who look upon fly fishing as a sporting art form.

Taking life from a 1500 sq mile (4000 sq km) catchment area of wild Border uplands and fertile valleys, the Tweed, flowing 98-miles to Berwick and the sea, fully deserves its reputation as one of the world’s great salmon and trout fisheries.

It reputedly catches more Atlantic salmon than any river in the European Union and has been a favourite with anglers since the 17th century. Record books from the 1800’s show the numbers of fish being taken from the river numbering in their tens of thousands.

Locally created ties such as Greenwell’s Glory and Jock Scott, together with scores of other colourful characters are cast across the Tweed’s bountiful, if moody, waters by thousands of fly fishers over the course of the season – one of the longest, running from Feb 1 to November 30.

Today the river is the source of very big business indeed and you could find yourself rubbing shoulders with some high profile fishing fans from royalty to sporting stars and celebrities.

In Scotland fishing permits can range from £30 to £1,000 a day and stretches of the Tweed are among the most sought after. In October at the Junction Pool, where the Teviot joins big brother Tweed just outside Kelso, it can cost up to £30,000 a week for five rods to fish.

That’s serious money for serious players who are prepared to travel from all over the world to put their skills to the test on the Tweed.

But the Tweed has an appeal beyond angling. For almost 100 miles the river flows through some of the most beautiful countryside, with historic settings to match, in Britain.

Forming part of the border between England and Scotland it has flowed silently seaward as men have marched to war across the centuries.

From its source to Berwick-on-Tweed where it spills out into the North Sea, the Tweed – romantic, historic and recreational – is one of the Borders’ class acts.

Filed Under: Active Borders, Fishing

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