Selkirk

Borders exceptional explorer

February 28, 2022 by David Pike Leave a Comment

As young Borders’ student Mungo Park started his medical studies at Edinburgh in the late 1780’s the big news of the day was all about France where revolution had ushered in an era of turmoil and savagery.

But if these were the worst of times, when Britain faced a protracted war with France that would spread over 25 years, they were also an age of enlightenment and discovery, and Mungo was destined to make his mark on history.

The seventh child of a well to do farmer from Foulshiels, just outside Selkirk, Mungo had his sights set far beyond the Scottish Borders to make his way in the world. When he got the chance of joining an East India Company expedition to Sumatra in 1793 he jumped at the chance.

While in the Far East he indulged an interest in botany and discovered and recorded several new species of flora, studies that would open doors to influential new contacts in London on his return to Britain.

They included Sir Joseph Banks, himself a famous botanist and explorer who had circumnavigated the world with Capt James Cook, and a leading light in the Africa Association that supported initiatives to open up the ‘dark’ continent.

In 1795 Mungo accepted a commission from Sir Joseph to travel to Gambia and from there to take charge of an ambitious expedition to discover the course of the River Niger.

It was a trip that ended in disappointment and considerable personal suffering as he fell foul of local chiefs and Moorish tribesmen. The fact that he managed to travel hundreds of miles inland to Segou in modern day Mali, and live to tell the tale was an achievement in itself.

Eventually running out of resources he was forced to make his way back to the coast and then to Britain. The observations he brought with him were published and became an overnight sensation but Mungo’s ambitions to return to complete the assignment had to wait until 1805.

In the interim he married and ran a successful surgery in Peebles.

When the opportunity to make a second trip was offered, again by Sir Joseph, he jumped at the chance. This time he was to head a party that included 40 men from the Royal Africa Corps and builders to construct a boat when the source of the Niger was reached.

Against all advice and logic, he set off in the rainy season from Gambia and before long his party was severely reduced as men died of dysentery. Reaching Segou the depleted party converted a canoe and traveled over 1,000 miles along the river, through country that was often openly hostile and always intimidating.

The remaining party of Park and handful of men were killed by natives at Boussa rapids, in Nigeria, in 1806. His body was never found but Mungo Park is remembered as a courageous explorer who opened the way for those that followed.

Letters to his wife and friends in the Borders, sent while he was on expedition in Africa, can be seen on display at the Sir Walter Scott courtroom in Selkirk.

In his memory, the Mungo Park Medal is presented annually by the Royal Scottish Geographical Society.

The statue in High Street, Selkirk has four cast corner pieces of African natives by the internationally famous sculptor Thomas Clapperton who was born and brought up in nearby Galashiels.

An American tale and a Selkirk connection

February 28, 2022 by David Pike Leave a Comment

It is estimated that upwards of 25m people around the world can trace their roots back to Scotland.

From the early 1700’s on, thousands looked to new horizons and a better life overseas, sailing for destinations in Canada, Australia, New Zealand and other parts of the British Empire.

Many booked a one-way passage to the brave new world that was the USA and some, like James Murray from Selkirkshire, would set in train a fate line that would leave an indelible mark on history.

James embarked for Charleston in 1735, when America was a burgeoning British colony, and became a successful businessman. He made one trip home to the Borders – to marry his cousin Barbara Bennett.

The couple’s eldest daughter, Elizabeth, later married Edward Hutchinson Robbins in 1785 and they raised a family of three girls.

By this time living in the New York area, the eldest, Anne Jean Robbins married Joseph Lyman, a lawyer who went on to become a judge.

Their daughter, Catherine Robbins Lyman, married a wealthy New Yorker, Warren Delano, which gives a clue as to where this family tree is going.

Another daughter, Sara Delano wed James Roosevelt and their son Franklin Delano Roosevelt was to grow up to become one of America’s best loved and respected presidents.

FDR served a record four terms, from 1933 to 1945, and was the architect of the New Deal to provide relief for the unemployed. He also brought America into the Second World War in 1941.

He is rumoured to have visited the graves of his maternal forebears, buried in the Kirk of the Forest, Kirk Wynd in Selkirk, while in Britain during the war.

Today a notice board makes proud reference to the Murray – Roosevelt connection, underneath another historic link for the Kirk of the Forest – the place where William Wallace was proclaimed Guardian of Scotland in 1298…but that’s another story.

Where William Wallace was made Guardian of Scotland

February 28, 2022 by David Pike Leave a Comment

A geophysics study of Selkirk’s Auld Kirk in the Scottish Borders has uncovered what appears to be the underground remains of a medieval church where William Wallace was likely to have been made Guardian of Scotland in 1297.

Dr Chris Bowles, Scottish Borders Council’s archaeologist, commissioned the survey by the University of Durham in conjunction with the Selkirk Conservation Area Regeneration Scheme (CARS).

Chris said: “Ruins of the Auld Kirk date from the 18th century, but we knew this had replaced earlier churches on site from the 12th and 16th centuries.

It has been widely acknowledged that this was the site of the Kirk of the Forest where Wallace was made Guardian of Scotland following his and Andrew Moray’s defeat of the English army at the Battle of Stirling Bridge in 1297.

“We had been expecting the geophysics survey to uncover a 16^th century church that we know to have existed and which was a replacement to the medieval church, but the only evidence in the survey is in relation to the medieval church.”

The association between Wallace and the local area is quite well documented, with Wallace using guerilla tactics to fight the English from the Ettrick Forest, and the Scottish nobles made Wallace Guardian of Scotland in recognition of his military successes.

Wallace went on to become the legendary figure he remains today and the basis of the film Braveheart starring Mel Gibson.

Chris added: “The history of Selkirk is known to an extent, but there has been little archaeological work carried out to date. While these geophysics results suggest a medieval, possibly Norman, chapel beneath the later church, we are very restricted by the burials in the area to allow any excavation. It may be possible to conduct limited investigations in areas where there is no evidence of burial.”

Colin Gilmour, Selkirk CARS project manager, said: “There is nothing in the town currently signposting people to the Auld Kirk site, but with this latest discovery it could become a major attraction and assist with the regeneration of the town centre. We hope to work with the community to make the most of this fascinating discovery and the tourism potential it has.”

Selkirk – a town in touch with its historic traditions

February 28, 2022 by David Pike Leave a Comment

Scratch the surface of any Border town and you will find a community of independent minded people who are fiercely proud of their traditions.

In Selkirk, perched on a terrace of hills overlooking the Ettrick Water, where locals are known as ‘souters’ (shoemakers), there’s a generous welcome waiting for anyone who wants to know more.

Here we have a small town that achieved Royal Burgh status in the 12th century and has consistently boxed above its weight ever since in terms of the contribution it has made to Borders’ history.

The lives and times of King David I, William Wallace (appointed Guardian of Scotland at the Kirk o’ the Forest, Kirk Wynd in 1298), James V, the Dukes of Buccleuch, the Marquis of Montrose (Battle of Philiphaugh 1645), Mungo Park and Sir Walter Scott are all closely intertwined with Selkirk.

As is Fletcher, whose imposing statue stands outside Victoria Hall and around whom the spectacular Common Riding revolves each year.

He was part of the Selkirk contingent who marched away to fight under James IV at the ill-fated battle of Flodden (1513) – and reputedly the only one to return. Fletcher is said to have staggered into the market place to bring news of a terrible defeat, casting down a captured English flag before dropping down dead.

His final flourish is commemorated each year by the Casting of the Colours ceremony that closes the Common Riding.

After Flodden the town was ransacked and burnt by the English, punitive action that won Selkirk 1000 acres of forest and a Royal Charter from James V in appreciation of the valour of local people and in order that they might have timber for rebuilding.

Selkirk is a great place for statues. A short stroll west from Victoria Hall, standing at the end of High Street, is a monument to explorer Mungo Park, who died trying to discover the source of the Niger in Africa.

The casts of Fletcher and native cameos that adorn the four corners of the Mungo Park statue are the work of Border sculptor Thomas Clapperton who achieved international fame after studying in Glasgow, London and Paris. Many of his best pieces can be found in the Borders.

In Selkirk market place is a memorial to Sir Walter Scott, the Borders most famous son, standing in front of the courthouse he presided over as Sheriff of Selkirkshire from 1803-1832. Of all the famous footprints that have made their mark in the Borders, Sir Walter’s have left by far the biggest impression.

A short walk from the market place is the award-winning Halliwells museum recreating the building’s former use as a home and ironmonger’s shop. It also tells the story of the historic burgh of Selkirk and the Robson Gallery hosts regularly changing contemporary art, craft and local history exhibitions.

Selkirk’s shoemaking industry, still going strong in the mid-1700’s when 2,000 pairs were provided for Bonnie Prince Charlie’s army on its march south, was eclipsed by textile production from the 1800’s onwards.

A forest of tall chimneys once dominated the skyline along Ettrick Water, testament to the importance of textile manufacture in the Borders. The mills were internationally famous and today Locharron of Scotland carries on that tradition as the world’s leading tartan manufacturer.

The company stocks over 700 tartans and has kilted numerous celebrities from Sean Connery to Shrek.